Many fashion industry observers often point to Paris Fashion Week as the pinnacle of luxury fashion. The echoes of this year’s event still resonate, mostly spotlighting the perennial dominance of the expected fashion elite — from Balenciaga’s provocatively avant-garde stylings to Louis Vuitton closing out the week once again.
Amidst this mainstream focus on the established brands, this year’s Paris Fashion Week also heralded a subtle yet discernible shift in perspective — an acknowledgment of the emerging presence of Asian luxury fashion labels on the global stage. At long last, the overdue recognition of designers like Rok Hwang, Rui Zhou, and Chitose Abe is a pivotal and necessary moment in the greater evolution of fashion, where East meets West.
The emergence of Asian luxury fashion labels and designers from the Asian diaspora signals a paradigm shift within the industry’s power dynamics. The ascent as creators and innovators reflects a growing confidence and assertiveness within the Asian diaspora and Asian fashion community, fueled by a mix of cultural pride, fiscal prosperity, and retail reinvigoration.
The influence of culture
At the heart of Asia’s rise as a fashion powerhouse lies a compelling challenge to convention. While not inherently revolutionary, this rise of Asian luxury is partly what I view as a reverence for cultural heritage and authentic representation; this is especially true in some cases of designers from the Asian diaspora. Their art is not mere imitation of their European counterparts, instead a distinct expression of self-identity.
The pursuit of cultural authenticity and the palpable growth that has followed stems from an innate desire to reclaim narratives and aesthetics that have often been marginalized in Western contexts. Take the works of Sabyasachi Mukherjee, renowned for reinterpreting traditional Indian textiles such as hand-woven silk, and incorporating intricate embroidery techniques like zardozi and kantha into his designs. By infusing these elements into his designs, Mukherjee not only showcases the exquisite artistry of South Asian artisans, but also challenges Western perceptions of Indian culture as exotic or “other.”
Mukherjee is just one of the prominent figures within a broader fashion movement dedicated to preserving cultural heritage through artistic expression. Although he is not alone in this endeavor, his work symbolizes a collective commitment to honoring tradition. This emphasis on tradition, in turn, facilitates a sense of affirmation amongst the masses, resonating with both the Asian diaspora and the global audience at large.
The proliferation of Asian labels we now see is not by chance. Instead reflects a growing recognition of celebrating cultural identity through one of the most accessible artforms imaginable: attire.
Economic power in Asia and the Asian diaspora
It is nearly impossible to ignore Asia’s economic powerhouses. From Japan and South Korea to the burgeoning markets of Thailand, Vietnam, and Singapore, the Asia-Pacific region is rich grounds for exponential growth in luxury consumption. And we are seeing this trend extend beyond just the region as evidenced by the increasing demand for Asian luxury and high-end streetwear alike. The growing popularity — both in Asia and across North America — of brands like Sacai, ACRONYM, and Yohji Yamamoto highlight the global appeal and influence of Asian fashion.
Amidst all of this buzz there is China, a country that is, by no exaggeration, rewriting the rules of contemporary luxury consumerism. In 2018, China had already accounted for roughly 24% of the total luxury goods sales, and by 2025, that number is expected to surpass 40%. This staggering growth has not only transformed China into the world’s largest luxury market. Still, it has also catalyzed a supply-and-demand opportunity for Asian designers to forge domestic fame into international success.
The fashion industry has historically overlooked Asian designers as pioneers or innovators in the fashion realm. However, the competition within budding markets has sparked a wave of creativity, resulting in many notable breakthroughs. Perhaps best exemplified by the label Shang Xia by Jiang Qiong-er. Founded in 2010, Shang Xia skyrocketed the ranks of luxury fashion, garnering endorsements from the prestige of Hermès and Exor N.V.
Despite achieving prominence in as saturated of a market as China is commendable, we must be careful not to imply that the legitimacy of Asian labels hinges solely on affirmation from European brands. Instead, it’s more important to celebrate both the bridging of the gap between Eastern and Western design, and the value and quality inherent within Asian fashion, independent of external validation.
Retail reinvigoration
Perhaps most overlooked, one of the foremost reasons for the proliferation in Asian luxury fashion labels — for both Asia-grown and brands originating from the Asian diaspora — is retail reinvigoration technologically and brick-and-mortar. To me, a singular brand that has pushed boundaries and captured what it means to succeed in the new age of retail is South Korean eyewear maker Gentle Monster.
Globally, the digital revolution has democratized access to the fashion world; social media, direct-to-consumer websites, and digital marketing have become indispensable tools for all brands. Gentle Monster’s early adoption and leveraging of these tools is what’s led to their cult-like following. By artfully showcasing their unique brand ethos online, they entice potential consumers into their physical locations, where they thrive, converting sales and building brand trust.
Gentle Monster’s flagship stores transcend anything their Western counterparts have birthed, transporting customers into a multi-sensory journey more akin to an art exhibition than a mall storefront. Each store is curated to reflect a distinct theme or concept. Through its immersive offerings, Gentle Monster has set new expectations for how luxury should evolve in an industry marred by complacency rooted in legacy.
What’s next for Asian luxury fashion
Undoubtedly, Asian luxury fashion labels and designers from the Asian diaspora are on a promising trajectory, though there is still much ground to cover. While Western houses retain considerable influence, the growth we are witnessing signals a significant turning point in the fashion industry’s narrative — prioritizing cultural heritage and boundary-pushing innovation over established legacy. The way we dress is the most accessible way we can celebrate cultural identity, and there is a clear economic desire from Asian consumers to do so. As we continue to watch the unfolding of events, one thing is abundantly clear: the future of luxury is undeniably Asian.
See also: Vintage shopping culture between North America and Asia
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